SIHH 2022 Trend Report: Blue dials continue to stage a strong, stylish showing
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SIHH 2022 Tendency Report: Blue dials continue to stage a strong, stylish showing
Blue's reign shows no sign of stopping, with watchmakers applying this popular hue onto their creations in every conceivable way.
Panerai's Submersible 42mm. (Photo: Panerai)
01 Feb 2022 06:00AM (Updated: 04 Jul 2022 03:11PM)
For at least six years now, blue dials accept been a popular alternative to black, white or silver versions.
Bluish complements near all pare tones, and is appropriate no matter what the occasion. It's no wonder, so, that watchmakers continue to introduce the hue onto dials and straps, bezels and movement parts.
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BOVET
VIRTUOSO IX
Bovet timepieces are ordinarily so richly detailed and finely constructed that entire essays could be devoted to singing their praises. But for brevity'south sake, we'll only highlight the salient features of the new Virtuoso Ix.
Kicking things off: The intense, lustrous bluish dial, which is the result of 8 layers of translucent lacquer applied to a surface that's engraved with a fan motif. The color is evocative of 19th century enamelwork, for which Bovet is famous.
And speaking of the 19th century, the case back reveals another throwback: Movement bridges engraved with a bris de verre (broken glass in French) motif and coated with a bluish CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition) handling. The combination of, and dissimilarity between, the blue bridges and argent-white rhodium plate was said to be a favourite of the Bovet brothers.
Among the watch's technical achievements is its big date indication on the lesser right. The second fourth dimension zone part, indicated past the smaller, 24-hour sub-dial, is handy likewise. For added convenience, there'southward besides an side by side cities window. You tin adjust the time zone – which takes into account daylight savings time – using 2 correctors on the case side.
Then there's the 10-day power reserve, indicated by the window on the bottom left. A unmarried barrel fuels this power supply, aided past a twice-patented spherical differential winding organisation (you lot can run across this mechanism on the case back at 12 o'clock). By halving the number of turns of the crown required to fully wind the watch, this machinery saves you precious time – fourth dimension that could be spent admiring the watch.
The Virtuoso Ix comes in cherry-red golden, white gilt or platinum, with an alligator strap.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Cosmos
Watchmaking meets interstellar travel in Girard-Perregaux'southward Creation. Or at to the lowest degree, you'll become the sensation of hurtling through space when glancing at this timepiece, cheers to the optical effect acquired by the blueish luminescent liquid ceramic glowing through cutting-outs on the punch.
Beneath the raised sapphire crystal, the diorama consists of 4 elements: Hours and minutes sub-punch; tourbillon; and two spheres representing the earth and constellations. The earth sphere also comes with a 24-hour band around the equator. This functions as both a second fourth dimension zone and solar day/night indicator. Meanwhile the cosmic sphere showcases the 12 constellations associated with the Western Zodiac.
If you lot've noticed the lack of a crown, well that'south considering all adjustments accept place on the instance back. There, four keys control the winding, time-setting and adjustment of each sphere. For those with slender wrists, note that the watch wears large: The beadblasted titanium case is 48mm in diameter and is fitted with a blue alligator strap.
GREUBEL FORSEY
Art PIECE EDITION HISTORIQUE
The watchmaking duo of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey want you call back of their latest creation every bit less a timekeeper and more of a philosophical statement. Hence the mitt-engraved musings on role of the dial, which espouse their ideals. Just hey, you can brand those ideals your own goals, besides – "Creativity" and "Perfection" are universal.
Other musings include "Art" and "Architecture", which perfectly describe this piece. The multi-layered, superbly finished, three-dimensional dial is archetype Greubel Forsey. Hours and minutes are read off red arrows poised on superimposed discs, while seconds are indicated by a blue hand on the sub-dial betwixt 10 and eleven o'clock.
Keeping things running smoothly is a double tourbillon inclined at a 30ยบ angle, which cancels out the event that gravity has on timekeeping accuracy. The device is set up against a stunning royal blue background. The sentry – the concluding in a series of Fine art Pieces that debuted in 2022 – is issued in a 33-piece limited edition, with the initial 11 pieces in platinum. The case textile of the remaining 22 will be announced later.
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PANERAI
SUBMERSIBLE 42MM (PAM 959)
This is the entry-level diving picket yous'll want to become if you desire a Panerai with a unlike look, compared to the classical Panerai aesthetic of stainless steel case and black sandwich dial. Here the brushed steel case is fitted with a blueish ceramic bezel, while the textured grey punch (Panerai calls information technology "shark grey") sports applied hour markers and dots.
The PAM 959 might also exist a better fit for your wrist. It'south 42mm in diameter, a size that Panerai has been offering more than and more of in contempo years, mostly because of Asian demand and the general backlash against oversized watches. Watertight to depths of 300m, the lookout is propelled by an automated, in-house manufactured calibre and comes with a blueish rubber strap.
ROGER DUBUIS
EXCALIBUR AVENTADOR S BUCHERER Bluish EDITION
Swiss watch and jewellery retailer Bucherer introduced its Bucherer Blueish Editions in 2016, collaborating with watchmakers to produce pieces with blue elements exclusively for its boutiques. The collection now counts some 16 watchmakers and 32 watches, the latest of which is Roger Dubuis'south Excalibur Aventador Southward.
Housed in a 45mm C-SMC carbon example, the watch sports an openworked Duotor calibre that'southward enlivened by a blue dial and a rubber strap with a blue technical fabric insert. It's express to merely eight pieces.
ULYSSE NARDIN
CLASSICO MANARA
While most famous for its Freak series of watches, Ulysse Nardin is also admired for its erotic watches. Typically, these characteristic automatons in, shall nosotros say, compromising positions. On the Classico Manara, however, the Swiss watchmaker took a dissimilar approach, adopting the art of miniature painting to illustrate the erotic themes.
Inspiration came from the Italian comic book illustrator Milo Manara, a classically trained painter with one-half a century'south feel. To fit Manara's water color paintings on the dials – which are around 10 times smaller than the originals – Ulysse Nardin's artisans had to invest 50 hours of work, round the clock, per dial. The resulting miniature paintings were and then protected by a layer of transparent lacquer.
In that location are ten paintings in all, with Ulysse Nardin issuing a limited run of 10 pieces each in stainless steel and rose gold, for a total of 200 pieces. In-business firm automated movements and dark blue alligator straps complete the collection.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
OVERSEAS TOURBILLON
Of all the watchmakers at SIHH, Vacheron Constantin was the most prolific when it came to the blues. It showcased non one but vii models across three collections decked out in this regal tone. But equally longtime fans of the sporty nevertheless elegant Overseas line, the 1 that prepare our pulses racing fastest was the Overseas Tourbillon.
Information technology's the get-go ever tourbillon model in the Overseas collection, and what a debut. The tourbillon is set against a stunning blue dial, made from translucent blue lacquer applied onto a sunburst satin-finished surface. The tourbillon first appeared on ii models in the Traditionnelle collection in 2018, but here it really pops thanks to the blue backdrop.
The mechanism'south architecture and finesse is to be admired: The openworked Maltese Cross; the finely polished gears and wheels; and the bar that supports the entire structure, which is hand-bevelled, a process that requires 12 hours of work.
The self-winding watch has eighty hours of power reserve, so you lot tin choice up where y'all left off even afterward a long weekend. It'southward too supplied with iii straps – alligator, rubber and steel – that tin can easily be changed without the apply of tools.
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